サーフボードコレクションブック！/Tomoko　Okazaki

2017.03.10

海でよく会う友人ジムに彼のライディングショットを送ったら、彼が出版したサーフボードコレクションブックをプレゼントしてくれました。これぞわらしべ長者！　今まで見たサーフカルチャーブックの中で最も詳しく、ありとあらゆる側面がカバーされている素晴らしい本。毎日１ページずつゆっくり読んでも２年くらいかかりそう。ほんとうにありがとう。
I have been shooting my friends while I go surfing for quite some time. it keeps me busy so I don’t get frustrated not getting waves when its crowded, and most of all it give me joy when they get stoked to see their riding pictures. I remember one time at 1000 peaks, one guys told me ” I have been surifng here for 30 years and I never had picture of me surifng here”
Its been my tool to befriend with people in the lineup. a way to pay my grattitude to be there, and definately a good excuse to be on the shoulder ( or even channel at times) when its BIG,haha.they are not professional quality but good enough to enjoy among friends and I have fun watching everyone.
Jim Winniman gave this beautiful book he published last year to thank me for some photos I took of him.
Wow! I had heard about his surfboard collection book but never had had it in my hands, it is one of the thickest heaviest surf art bool I had seen( not to mention artwork and detail are amazing)
And it not only covers the surfboard but also every aspect of surfing culture. its like history book of surfing and surfing deserve to have a good history book by now.
Now it is a fixture of our coffee table, thank you so much Jim. #わらしべ長者 #patagoniajp #surfculture

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